Sunday, May 26, 2013

Meteorite

Just outside of city limits of BL (Banja Luka from now on), there is a small segregated neighborhood that is infamous for hosting a meteorite that hit the Bosnian soil circa 12,000 years ago. If you were an accidental passerby, you would think it is a strangely looking stone cut in a half with almost perfect half sphere shape, along with a neighboring smaller perfectly circled stone. And you would be wrong. Apparently, some dwellers found it who knows when, and cut it in half because they presumed that this perfectly round object contained some kind of a precious metal. Luckily, the smaller one was preserved. Once the archeologists established the authencity of the meteorite, they created a modest shrine for it next to somebody's house. When we approached the sight, we-practically parked in someone's front yard. Since it was a holiday, people were sitting in their yards, using any accuse to celebrate and drink. As it is here in the Balkans, the hospitality is taken to the extremes. We were offered to join in the celebration consuming the homemade rakija. (Pronounced rakiya or grappa; kind of a grape moonshine). We politely declined as we continued to take the pictures of this unusual sight. Never knew about it, yet it has been sitting in the area for 12,000 years. Neat!!



Monday, May 20, 2013

Balkan Rules

Past few days went by uneventful. Besides sunbathing and swimming, the time has not been fruitful with exciting events. Except maybe few lessons learnt from local mentality. Days in Croatia are coming to the end as in no time, we will head back to the motherland - Bosnia and Herzegovina. Overall, I enjoyed spending time with my mom as I realized that even in the States, we do not get a chance to hang out on our own. Of course, I wish my dad and others were here, but I gained some valuable memories that will continue to linger as we retell them every time we meet. We definitely have gained more material for future reminiscences.
The other day, we visited Krocula which is a nearby island where we visited a museum, climbed up some narrow stairs to get to the Marco Polo Tower house hosting a couple of bells, and enjoyed some local wine with great, fresh seafood. As I have mentioned few times before, the out of season transport is not very convenient. Some older French ladies tagged along with us, as we attempted to find a boat that will take us back to the mainland. Without speaking a world of French or they any other language than their own, somehow we found a common ground and I told them to follow us since we shared desired destination. So, I asked the guy that operated a small boat if he can take us back to Orebic. He asked me how much am I willing to pay, so we agreed on 15 kunas per person which translates into roughly 3 dollars. Apparently, we joined in with a group of tourists that had all inclusive privileges and one of them was this mean of transportation. Clueless, we jumped in and continued our seemingly quick and painless journey back. However, when the time came to pay, suddenly the price rose up to 50 kunas for 2 people. When I asked him, why did it change, he just said "that's how things are." Upset and angry, I told him a couple of "nice" things and continued walking. Then I realized, that is how things work in the Balkans and I cannot change anything. Balkan Rules in the purest form; they change as the wind blows or as the boat crosses the sea, in this case.
Other than that, I went for walks and sat at cafes drinking some Croatian beer. The time is nearing for other adventures as I am getting too comfortable here. I recharged my own batteries and now I patiently await for future trips.

One Day At A Time

For more than a week now, I have been surrounded by my grandma and my mom. The connection we possess ties us together, yet at the same time I sense the line of separation. I guess, it is a natural progression of life where, we children continue where our preceding generations left off. As much as I feel in touch with them, there are times when I seek my own seclusion to paraphrase it all. I realized that I learnt to enjoy my own company and sometimes it is all right to spend some time of ascetic nature.
Yesterday, I went for a run on the beach. Jogging alone is still not introduced in our culture because sports are supposed to be communal and executed in groups. Well, I was the only one running around and I really attracted the eyes of locals and older tourists. It is still quite calm here as not many people make their way to the coast this time of the year. Generally, one can only see older couples from northern European countries taking the advantage of quietness. Although, I am learning to enjoy it myself, I miss the presence of loud crowds and the entertainment that comes with summer. For now, I come across the locals that inhabit this little town. Cafes are empty and workers patiently sit while awaiting busy season.
Currently, Croatia is preparing itself for the entry in the European Union. It will be the second nation after Slovenia from former Yugoslavian republics, that will attain the membership. The feelings and perception of this act is mixed. Some are scared of rising already high cost of living, while others await the monetary aid that will hopefully improve some sectors of economy. Strikes by transportation industries are taking place as of right now. They are taking the advantage before the entry into the EU to point out their grievances. The airport in Zagreb is left desolate as workers refuse to work. Hopefully, the situation will patch itself up in following days because my mom needs to go back to the States and Amber will be on her way soon. Those are personal reasons on my part that I wish they resolve the situation adequately and rapidly. However, the longterm satisfaction of those individuals that are striking is far from realization. Instant gratification and patching up seem to be a recurring theme in our modern world. We will see how far it will take us. Those temporary fixes carry temporary results. For the time being, this has to do.
Being here and living a simple existence made me realize that our lives are composed of days we spend and it should be seen in bits and pieces. Sometimes, we get carried away in searching for a bigger picture to sum it up all. Occasionally, I catch myself thinking about worries that I do not have and how normal life filled with work, bills and everyday nuisances seems so far away. How nice it would be to live as I live right now for the rest of my life!? People are so consumed with a need for a structure because they fail to create it on their own. Perhaps, only when one goes through the structured life it is possible to genuinely enjoy the randomness and simplicity. I have done this before, left for months at the time, but the perspective that I have now only enhances the experience and differs immensely. Nelson Mandela said it best: "There is nothing like returning to a place that remains unchanged to find the ways in which you yourself have altered."

Tuesday, May 14, 2013

Our Cab Driver

In a previous post, I mentioned that my uncle organized a transport to the place where our house is located at. We were greeted by a very interested gentleman that drove us around Lastovo island and also served as a tourist guide. I sensed the accent but I figured that is how people talk here. It turns out that he was actually born in South Africa and that he learnt to speak our language after he arrived. Apparently, he was a trained solider and somehow he ended up here. His father left then Yugoslavia in the 50's to return in the early 90s. He was really nice and he took us to the grocery store and helped us with things. After a great conversation and few cups of coffee, we let him go to his pregnant wife. He made me think of the cyclical nature of things here. People leave but they always hope to come back one day and some of them really do. I started thinking about my retirement and where would I like to be. Croatia looks pretty attractive as a final stop. When I was a kid, I used to say that the capital city of Yugoslavia was Murter, which was the place where we used to vacation in Croatia. I always loved the sea and its charming surrounding. Maybe, one day, just maybe...

Blood is not Water

So, I wrote another quite lengthy post that accidentally, got deleted. Annoying to say at least. Well, I will try to paraphrase what I have already written. Final day in Bosnia, before I get back, was filed with drinking lots of coffee in few different cafes, seeing randomly familiar faces and taking it all in. After enjoying my short stay, it was time to head out - direction Rovinj, Croatia, where my cousin's wedding was taking place.
After a 5 hour drive in an annoying rain, the destination was reached. The last obstacle, and it really was one, consisted out of catching the ferry with our dresses and clothes worth of a day stay. The crossing was quite entertaining and somewhat mood killing because everyone's hair and clothes were getting messed up. After settling in on an enchanting, small island, the nervousness and hectic atmosphere presented itself in everyone. However, once the drinks started rolling and I met some of my relatives I have not seen in years or never before, the mood took a turn for better, significantly.
The surrealism of it all, being here and seeing all these dear people, reaffirmed the saying we use, that blood is not water. And somehow, we managed to beat the time and years of separation, with an ease. It made me wonder, what is it in us that once we know someone is somehow related to us, we automatically turn on our familial feeling of warmth and genuine love for them without even really knowing them. Maybe it is some kind of chemical reaction triggered in our brains that causes us to feel close to them.
The wedding was really nice. It had a charm and dreaminess to it. The island of St. Katarina hosts only the hotel and beautiful nature surrounding it. It is impossible to see it from the outside because the entire island is covered in greenery. Adorable, little place. Obviously, the theme that surfaced quite often had to do something with marriage. And guess who they were directing their genuine concerns at? Yep, you guessed it, me and others like me. I felt as a leper with some other incurable diseases and at any point I might perish from the face of the Earth. I am almost 30 and unmarried, something must definitely be wrong!!! It was quite comical yet annoying at the same time. The face when they make when they tell you that you are still single, is quite scary. The grimace showed the empathy veiled in sorriness when I told them that I failed to catch a bouquet. After they got over it, I realized and they did too I hope, that I SHALL LIVE!
After the ceremony, we proceeded to the celebratory room where we drank, ate and drank some more. Rakiya caused quite a raucous in my head the following day. After breakfast, the 26 hour journey began. I got to see parts of Croatia, I have never seen before. We had to catch a night bus to Split from Pula where we waited for 6 hours to get on it. In Split, we took a ferry to Vela Luka which is located on the biggest island in Croatia. My uncle from Sweden organized a cab for us to take us to our desired destination, Orebic. Finally, after so many buses and ferries, cabs and other adventures, we finally settled in. This area is breathtakingly beautiful. Blue sea side with rocky terrain and abundance of trees makes it look like heaven on earth. Untouched by human destruction, this place makes time stand still. Lastovo island still has the original vegetation unhindered by the progress which is difficult to find in the world. It is still kind of quite since the summer season hasn't started yet. Soon enough, the tourists will take over and make it lively.
The access to the internet is scarce so, hopefully I will be able to find it once I go into the city tomorrow. Pictures will come soon as well. I have some technical difficulties since I already lost the converter for the electricity so, I have to buy a new one. Go figure. However, it is relaxing not to have the need to constantly check my email. It has been days since I've last checked my facebook account. I am actually enjoying and absorbing every minute of my existence without any actual worries but quality time passing. My ipad is about to run out of the battery so, I will stop now. Once I resolve power issues, I should be able to write more. Hope everyone is doing well!!!





Thursday, May 9, 2013

Victory Over Fascism...Or so it seems...

Sixty-eight years ago on today's day, May 9th, Hitler capitulated and the day became a national holiday in then emerging sovereign federation of Yugoslavia. In today's dissected region of the Balkans, it is still celebrated, even in the Republic of Srpska, which is the creation of the most recent war in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Segregation within the country is more than obvious and omnipresent as different people reside in the cities while the old inhabitants were sometimes forcefully, sometimes voluntarily urged to leave their homes. I can't help but detect the irony in it all as this socialist holiday still carries some symbolic weight. The intent during and after the 90's civil war was to eradicate anything that had any association with then communist Yugoslavia. Nationalism and arrogant patriotism swept the region on all three sides. Well, my region was affected by ardent Serb ethnocentricity which had undermined any other ethnic group. It still prevails until this day.

The importance of history and our ties to the land are deeply engraved in our genetic code, particularly here. Today, I felt it on this symbolic day quite strongly. Maybe, because it was a reminiscent day filled with a ride through my hometown. We visited graveyards where my family members were buried, who lived back in the 19th century. I could not help but think that this really is my land and that my relatives owned it, helped it grow, and left a legacy that is described in the books written by local writers. All of my family names, from both of the sides of family are mentioned quite frequently. Somehow, I understood more clearly how important it is to be remembered and how significant it is to all of us to continue talking about our relatives' impact; well at least those who spent their lives here. I am a part of some new generation that left and grew up in foreign countries but I still felt a deep connection and sense of belonging.

After an emotional visit to the graves of few generations of my relatives, which my Mom hasn't seen since we left, we continued moving towards a "Bosniak (Muslim)" part of town." Here in this area which has generally been predominately Muslim, we stopped at a famous restaurant called "Slap". (in English cascade or waterfall). The restaurant was build in 1955 and since then it has been an idyllic place to sit next to the amazingly beautiful river that our town takes pride in. The sounds of fast water and the images of gorgeous greenery, make it one of the most memorable places in the world. I may be swayed, but I have never seen my city as beautiful as it was today from the elevated suburbs surrounding it. Maybe it was the company, or the conversation we were carrying over some traditional Bosnian food or just all of the above but it was almost magical. Touching the water, smelling all the scents and embracing the sounds of the nature, allowed me to appreciate where I hail from. A city, which dates back to the Roman Empire, affected by catastrophes, both natural and man made, still stands as alluring as ever. For a moment I thought, I could spend my three month adventure here without going anywhere. (Of course, I am going to other places, but I just wanted to add the effect and true feeling I had).

Since I am here with my grandma who is the oldest family member, I hear a lot of useful commentaries and stories about every single small and big place. America seemed so distant and foreign to me today. Almost too big to appreciate life of a single person in such a detail as it is being preserved here through memories, stories and places. Even the grass is greener here. When we were riding in the bus yesterday from Croatia to Bosnia, my grandma told me a story when her sister first moved to Switzerland in the 70's. We were admiring the scenery and saw some animals and I pointed out how I finally see a normal cow. In the states, cows look different. This comment led my grandma to tell me how her sister used to write to her saying that she is nostalgic and wants to come back to Bosnia. She mentioned how "cows do not look the same and there is no one to look after them". I guess, there is no place like home.

However, the reality is quite different. Fascism was defeated so many years ago but I think a new type of fascism has taken over our amazing land. Nationalistic signs and flags are seen everywhere. There are more religious objects that no one really visits then schools; on all three sides. Decaying properties and failed businesses are seen everywhere. Lack of urban mentality has disappeared with all of us that left. We took away only real progressed culture present and left some new people that came from rural areas to take over our cities. The legacy of my family is slowly fading away because we are not here to continue it.

Yet, this trip made me hopeful. Maybe some day, I will be able to come back after another 20 years to see that hindrance has been defeated and that people will integrate and live in harmony and togetherness like we used to. I believe that this a segregation between rural and urban layer of people rather than just ethnic or religious. After all we are all the same people, not just here but everywhere else. I am reassured that I will be proud of the Balkans, once again.

Tuesday, May 7, 2013

First Encounters

As some of my friends expressed the interest in following my traveling adventures across Europe, along with my own desire to document it, I have decided to start a simple and mostly random blog to capture the insights, events, occurrences of all kinds.  Beforehand, please forgive me for any typos, grammatical errors or confusing sentences because I would like to keep it as genuine as possible; told in my own broken English.

So, I have reached my first destination which is Zagreb, Croatia.  After a quite entertaining flight to London, where I had a layover, I landed in what used to be a part of my former Yugoslavia.  If you wonder what kind of entertainment can possibly happen on the plane, well let me tell you it is quite possible especially when you travel with French.  From my own attempt to decipher the situation, I think that some passengers where arguing over the seats.  Throughout the entire flight, the echo of occasional screams and angry remarks kept being exchanged.  Finally, the crew separated them which allowed me to continue in subtle observation of people around me.
It finally hit me, I was not in America anymore.  The superficial politeness and mutual appreciation goes out of the window in this back of the woods.

Zagreb's International airport is rather small with a comfortable and safe feel because there is no way in hell you could get lost.  Also, the familiarity with the language helps, well maybe in to easily communicate but definitely does not result in a pleasant reception.  So, as a "foreigner" I entered my former country of Croatia as a Bosnian but it gets worse.  A Bosnian with an American passport is a source of a lot of contempt and mean looks.  Customs check went relatively smooth.  However, when I got to the Money Exchange window, the authentic Balkan customer service surfaced.  Well, she got aggravated with the money I gave her.  We all know that the quality of bills in the US does not really matter.  People write on it, tear it and still use it.  Well, here it is apparently offensive to present ugly looking US dollars with drawings on it.  I always thought it gives money a character.  The crisp European money slides easily and it is a sign that maybe they should stop printing so much money. Hint!  With my Bosnian "dialect" and an American passport, I survived my first encounter with rudeness and rolling of the eyes of some angry woman who hates diaspora.

The circumstances had me to rent a room near the airport which I did through a booking.com.  I should have known better, that the internet age has not fooled people in the Balkan because they like to over advertise and false advertise.  Well, either way I ended up in somebody's house which is quite normal lodging but now when you expect a regular hotel and for the price I paid.  Personally, I didn't care because I'd rather give it to some honest, hardworking individual who tries to do it small than to some profiteer.  The room ended up being clean and quite cosy.  Well, I am writing this from the mentioned room at 3 am local time because I am jet lagged and can't sleep.  One of the other reasons why I started this blog is to kill the night while everyone else is asleep.

Tomorrow  morning we are picking up my mom from the airport and continue our journey to my hometown.  I expect a lot of emotions from my mom since she hasn't been home in almost 20 years.  Border crossings were never our favorite, I still get goose bumps every time someone needs to check my identity.  But this is more symbolic for us because of the war and all that jazz.  I will write about it as we cross it tomorrow.  The crossing will entail a lot of contemplation and soul searching, I am sure.  Hopefully, I will get to write about it tomorrow.  I am positive I will because it will take awhile for my sleeping habits to go back to normal.

One thing before I go...As all of you know I like to blabber a lot, which transfers into my writing.  So,   if you skip a paragraph or two, no big loss!!


My first meal!! The best bread in the world with ABC cheese spread and yogurt! Can't wait to have some real, heavy unprocessed milk!!



The accidental lodging